Farmhouse cellars and newer poured basements leak for different reasons. We find out why your Green basement takes water and fix it with drainage, sump pumps and a transferable lifetime warranty.
Green covers a lot of ground in southern Summit County, and its homes span generations. Older farmhouses sit on stone or early block foundations, some with crawl spaces under later additions. Newer houses have poured concrete walls and builder-installed sump pits. Both kinds take water, and they do it in different places, so the first step in any Green basement is figuring out which walls you have and how they were built.
In newer construction, the backfill pushed against the walls after the foundation was poured is loose and uneven. It settles for years, leaving low spots along the house where water pools, and it soaks up rain much faster than the undisturbed clay around it. Water gathers in that band of soil and finds shrinkage cracks, form-tie holes and the joint at the footing. Some builder sump pits collect very little because they were never tied to a full drain.
In older homes, the trouble is age. Mortar in stone and block walls softens, clay tile drains clog, and floors were often poured thin. Heavy clay across the area drains slowly, and each winter the frost works on every joint. When spring rain arrives on top of snowmelt, the water table rises and both old and new basements get tested at the same time. Whichever kind you own, the weak spots show up first at the base of the wall.
Newer poured basements often need targeted work. We inject leaking cracks and form-tie holes with epoxy or polyurethane, and where the footing joint seeps we add interior drain tile that feeds the existing sump or a new, deeper pit. Outside, we fill the settled low spots along the foundation and extend downspouts so water moves away from the house.
Older farmhouse basements usually get a full perimeter drain at the footing, with weep holes for block walls and a membrane over stone or block to catch seepage. Crawl spaces get a sealed vapor barrier. Every sump gets a reliable pump, and a battery backup is a good idea in either type of home. A dehumidifier keeps the air dry once the leaks stop.
Green mixes older farmhouses with newer poured basements, so we fit each system to the house: injection and drain tile for poured walls, full perimeter drains for older block and stone, and regrading where backfill settled.
A perimeter drain captures water at the wall-floor joint and routes it to your sump before it reaches the floor.
A durable moisture barrier directs wall seepage into the drain and keeps the space dry and bright.
Collected water is moved out and away from your foundation by a high-capacity sump system.
The most common entry points are sealed watertight as part of the complete system.
You work directly with the All American team at every step.
We come out, find where the water gets in and walk you through what we see.
You get a fixed-price plan in plain English, with financing options if you want them.
Our own crew installs the drain, membrane and sump, usually in one to three days.
We test the pump with you and hand over a written, transferable lifetime warranty.
Interior drainage, wall membranes and footing drains that relieve water pressure and stop seepage at the source - keeping your Green basement dry for good.
Learn moreBowing walls and settlement cracks stabilized permanently with the Richtech Stabilizer System, carbon-fiber straps, and epoxy/polyurethane crack injection.
Learn moreHigh-capacity sump systems with battery backup and water-alarm monitoring that automatically clear water before it accumulates - even when the power goes out.
Learn moreFrench drains, downspout extensions and regraded surface drainage that move stormwater away from your foundation before it ever reaches your basement.
Learn moreRepair, replacement and maintenance of gutters and downspouts so roof runoff is captured and carried far from your foundation - your first line of defense.
Learn moreCode-compliant egress windows that add a safe emergency exit, flood your basement with natural light, and unlock legal bedroom potential and home value.
Learn morePowerful dehumidification and moisture control that clears musty odors, protects against mold, and turns a damp basement into fresh, comfortable living space.
Learn moreDurable, energy-efficient glass block windows that resist leaks and break-ins while still letting daylight into your basement - a clean, permanent upgrade.
Learn moreGreen is a straightforward drive for our crews from Wadsworth, so getting a free estimate or a repair scheduled here is quick and simple. We handle everything from a lone leaking crack to a full interior drainage system, and we do it with the same attention on every job.
You deal with people who actually know Green's homes and soils. We give you an honest inspection and a written quote with no pressure, the way we have earned trust across Summit County for four decades.
We had our cellar door stairs waterproofed, a drain in the basement and downlines for our gutters installed. The crew was great to work with.
Mike and Ken and the other workers, what can I say? They have gone above and beyond for us. This has been a very challenging job, and Mike the owner has been back several times to make it right.
Positive experience from start to finish. Scheduled the estimate within days and got us right on the calendar for the repair. Ken was great to work with and answered my numerous questions with patience. The crew arrived on time.
Newer basements often leak at shrinkage cracks, form-tie holes and the joint at the footing once the outside coating wears. Settled backfill can also pond water against the walls. We seal the leaks and add drainage where it's needed.
Some builder pits are not tied to a full perimeter drain, so they only catch water near the pit. Water along the other walls still comes in at the floor seam. We run drain tile along the affected walls into the pit.
Yes. Backfill settles for years after construction, and those low spots hold water right against your foundation. Refilling them so the ground slopes away, plus downspout extensions, takes a lot of pressure off the walls.
Yes. We install an interior drain at the base of the stone walls, add a membrane to catch seepage and connect it all to a sump pump. The stone stays in place and the water gets a way out.
If it's damp or musty, seal it. A heavy vapor barrier over the ground and up the walls, with drainage where water collects, keeps moisture from rising into the rooms above.
Warm, humid air condenses on cool concrete, and vapor can move through walls and floor. A properly sized dehumidifier handles it once any seepage is fixed. We check for hidden leaks first so the unit isn't fighting a losing battle.
That's when snowmelt, spring rain and thawing ground all hit at once. The clay can't drain it fast enough, so the water table rises against your walls. Interior drainage and a sump handle that seasonal surge.
Yes, especially if you've seen any dampness. Sealing cracks and adding drainage before framing protects the drywall, carpet and insulation you're about to install. We'll tell you what your basement needs.
If your basement relies on the pump, yes. Storms bring both the most water and the most outages. A battery backup takes over automatically and keeps the pit from overflowing.
All American Basement Waterproofing does, and yes, the inspection and estimate are free. We're a family-owned company based at 298 E Walnut St in Wadsworth, working since 1985 with an A+ BBB rating and our own crew. Call (330) 366-3028.
Green is one of the many Summit County communities we serve - or see our full basement waterproofing service.
Talk to All American today - we'll inspect your Green basement or foundation and give you an honest, written estimate at no cost. Family-owned and protecting Northeast Ohio homes since 1985.
24/7 emergency response · Financing available · Transferable lifetime warranty