Straight answers about waterproofing, cost, foundation repair and warranty. Still have questions? Call (330) 366-3028 - we’re happy to help.
Every home is different, so we give you a fixed, written estimate after a free in-person inspection - no surprises and no obligation. Cost depends on the size of the area and the system your home needs: most basement waterproofing jobs run $3,000–$10,000, and a full interior drainage system around the whole basement runs $5,000–$17,000. We offer financing to spread it into low monthly payments, and our cost guide has typical ranges for every service.
Yes. An All American specialist comes to your home, listens to your concerns, diagnoses the real source of the problem, and gives you an honest written estimate - all at no cost and with no pressure.
Yes. A dry home shouldn't have to wait. We offer flexible financing with low monthly payments on approved credit - just ask your specialist about current options.
The linear feet of drainage and which walls it covers, the pump and basin, where the discharge line exits, battery backup, any wall membrane, how many cracks are injected, permits, cleanup and the warranty terms. When two quotes are far apart, comparing them line by line usually shows why. Our cost guide has the full checklist.
We serve 8 counties across Northeast Ohio from our base in Wadsworth - Summit, Stark, Medina, Cuyahoga, Portage, Wayne, Ashland and Richland counties. Each county has its own page listing the towns we work in, or see all service areas.
Yes. Water emergencies don't wait for business hours, and neither do we. Call (330) 366-3028 any time for 24/7 emergency response.
Stay out of the water if it could reach outlets, cords or appliances, and leave the electrical panel to the power company or an electrician if you would have to wade to reach it. If it is safe, check that the sump pump has power and is running, move what you can off the floor and take photos for your insurance company. Then call (330) 366-3028 any time for 24/7 emergency response.
It depends on your home. Interior drainage systems relieve water pressure from inside and are reliable and cost-effective; exterior membranes and footing drains stop water before it reaches the wall. After inspecting your foundation, we'll recommend the approach that truly solves your problem - not the most expensive one.
For structural movement we use industrial-grade solutions like the Richtech Industries Stabilizer System and carbon-fiber straps to permanently stabilize the wall. For smaller leaks and cracks, we use professional epoxy and polyurethane crack injection to seal them tight.
Yes. We carefully work along the perimeter, install the system, and leave the space ready to restore. We'll walk you through exactly what to expect before we start.
There is concrete work involved: a strip of floor along the walls is broken out, the drain pipe and stone go in, and the strip is patched with fresh concrete. That means noise and some dust while it happens, so the walls need to be cleared and nearby belongings covered. When the job is done you see a narrow band of new concrete along the walls, the sump lid and any wall membrane.
Snowmelt and spring rain arrive while the ground near the surface is still frozen, so the water cannot soak in and runs toward the foundation. The clay soil common across the region drains slowly, keeping the soil against the walls saturated for days, and that pressure pushes water through cracks and the joint where the wall meets the floor. A basement that only leaks in March and April usually has the same problem as one that leaks all year, just less often.
Interior drainage can go in any time of year because the work happens inside, so there is no reason to wait for summer. Exterior excavation and yard drainage go easier once the ground has thawed and dried out. The best time is before the next wet season, so a system installed in the fall is already working when the spring thaw arrives.
Usually. Each wet season the water carries a little more soil through the crack, freeze-thaw cycles work at the opening, and damp walls grow mold behind whatever is stored against them. A leak that shows up each spring tends to show up sooner and spread further over the years, and fixing it while it is one corner keeps the job smaller.
Ohio law puts that call on whoever does the digging, so on an exterior job it is the contractor's responsibility. The notice has to go in at least two working days before digging starts (the day of the call, weekends and legal holidays do not count) and no more than 16 calendar days ahead. Member utilities mark their lines for free, but private lines, like a buried line to a garage or a sprinkler system, are not marked, so point those out before work begins.
Permits are handled by your local building department, and the requirements vary from one community to the next. Structural work, such as foundation repair or cutting a new egress opening, is more likely to need one than interior drainage. Before work starts, ask the contractor which permits your job needs and who pulls them, and get the answer in writing.
You can patch a dry hairline crack with a hardware store kit, but a crack that leaks under pressure usually pushes a surface patch off, because the water is coming from outside the wall. In a poured wall, injection fills the crack through its full depth, while block walls leak through their hollow cores and need drainage. A crack that is widening or running horizontally needs a structural look before anyone seals it.
Many older Northeast Ohio homes have clay tile drains along the outside of the footing that have silted up or been crushed by roots over the decades. They can sometimes be cleared or replaced from outside, but that means digging down to the footing along the wall. More often the practical fix is an interior drain that takes over the job and carries the water to a sump.
On a newer pump, a stuck float, a failed switch or a bad check valve can be replaced on its own. If the motor hums without pumping, the housing is rusting through or the pump is near the seven to ten years most pumps last, replacing it is the better use of the money. Either way, test it afterward by filling the pit with water and watching a full cycle.
A few times a year, and always before the spring thaw and after a long dry spell. Pour a bucket of water into the pit and watch the pump start, empty the pit and shut off on its own. If you have a battery backup, check its alarm and battery at the same time, since backup batteries wear out on their own schedule.
Very little. Keep the sump lid on so debris stays out of the pit, keep the discharge line outside clear of snow, leaves and mulch, and test the pump a few times a year. If water ever shows up again in an area we waterproofed, call us, because that is what the lifetime warranty is for.
At least twice a year: in late spring after the trees drop their seeds and again in late fall once the leaves are down. Homes under heavy tree cover may need it more often. A clogged gutter overflows right at the foundation, which is exactly where you do not want the water.
Our own crews. Every job is performed by All American's own trained crews - so the quality and the warranty are entirely on us.
Yes. Our lifetime warranty stays with the home, so it transfers to the next owner if you ever sell - a genuine selling point for your house.
All American Basement Waterproofing is family-owned and has been protecting Northeast Ohio homes since 1985 - more than 40 years of experience.
Each service page answers the questions we hear most about that work, starting with what it costs.
Talk to All American today - we’ll inspect your basement or foundation and give you an honest, written estimate at no cost. Family-owned and protecting Northeast Ohio homes since 1985.
24/7 emergency response · Financing available · Transferable lifetime warranty